Jason Atherton worked for Gordon Ramsay for a decade before he sort of exploded onto the global culinary scene. He’d always been good, of course, but since starting out on his own, he’s been even better: his first effort, Pollen Street Social, earned its Michelin star in under a year, and his Asian domination plan is going strong, with an empire that stretches from Singapore to Shanghai and Hong Kong. On the debut eve of his no-reservations Hong Kong restaurant, 22 Ships, the line stretched down the block within an hour of throwing those doors open. Eggs figure greatly in the menu there — alongside parent categories such as “Meat” and “Seafood” comes “Eggs” — and the Spanish Breakfast is an instant classic, a riff on Pollen Street’s English breakfast, and made of a sous-vide egg with chorizo and potato foam.
So how does this maestro of egginess like his yolks?
“I like ‘em loads of ways. The last really good egg I had was in a restaurant in Washington. A slow cooked egg, taken out of the shell, deep fried, quenelle of caviar on top, toast. Awesome. I’ve got a picture of it on my phone, actually. Just mix it all together, take your toast, put it on your toast and eat it. Just divine. It was in Jose Andres’ restaurant, called Jaleo.”
The rest of my interview with Chef Atherton is at Prestige Hong Kong.